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Archive for the ‘Syria’ Category

You may have noticed there was something of a blank here at Lucid Ephemera for a few weeks while I went off and did festive things and had a holiday. More details on Italians in puffy jackets and wild boar salami follow in the next few weeks. In the meantime, I hope all of you [...]

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Wordless Wednesday

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Strolling in the Souq

Syria is largely unwesternised; it is the unadulturated Middle East, fresh, raw and pungent. Where Lebanon has cosmopolitan Beirut and other Arab states have big glitzy cities, Syria went into a period of economic decline in the 19thC and missed the rampant development that blighted many European cities, who bulldozed their heritage and created modern [...]

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You can take the Beloved out of England, but you can’t take English football out of him. We’d just returned to Syria and I was so excited about exploring Aleppo that I hadn’t been able to sleep the night before. But the Beloved had other things on his mind, namely Liverpool FC’s first match of [...]

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We didn’t plan to hitch a ride with smugglers across an international border. But we needed a taxi for the two-hour journey from the excavation site that we’d been visiting in rural Turkey back to Aleppo in Syria. Our host archaeologists said the best way to cross was to go with the smugglers who needed [...]

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Grazing in New Pastures

They say that life is what happens while you’re making other plans. So it was that my tour of Syrian food happened while we were trying to equip ourselves to see Damascus. We’d arrived with little cash because Syrian pounds can’t be taken our of the country, so we had only what we could exchange [...]

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Ode to Syria

Driving into Damascus from the airport at night is slightly surreal. There’s a huge Aladdin’s lamp over a carnival that’s sparkling with bright colours. The city rises up against a steep hill and the apartment buildings look like a forest of white lights. Mosques are everywhere and their minarets are lit with coloured light; one [...]

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